Vinous: 90 Points
The 2022 Mâcon-Uchizy Les Maranches has a more austere bouquet demanding some coaxing from the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a saline entry and fine weight in the mouth. Not complex per se yet it feels quite long and spicy on the finish. Fine. - By Neal Martin on October 2023 Arguably the most prominent Meursault producer it was big news when Dominique Lafon retired and handed the running to his daughter Léa and nephew Pierre Lafon the former having taken maternity leave after giving birth to her two children. Of course Dominique Lafon remains a presence at the winery. They taste together every other week though in the past on more than one occasion Lafon has emphasized how they make the calls. Dominique did drop in during my visit as I was sure and hoped he would though it was Pierre Lafon who took me through the wines that included their Mâconnais range. ?The 2022 is our last vintage with Caroline Gon [who is not devoted to her and her husband?s domaine Frantz-Chagnolou]. There was a transition period between her and our new winemaker Elsie Moore who has now taken over.? As well as the Mâconnais wines we tasted through their complete portfolio of reds and whites. ?The reds were racked after the harvest at the end of September. They were picked from August 29 and finished on September 4. The alcohol levels are around 13.5% with a pH around 3.50. We have a new de-stemmer so we have some whole bunches around 50% for some cuvées. The whites will be bottled as early as January next year.? Although Comtes Lafon is renowned for its Meursaults readers should note that their reds can be outstanding. I was intrigued to taste their Volnay Les Santenots-du-Milieu which includes stems (50%) for the first time a move that enhances this cuvée. It?s not their new recipe and readers should be advised that the 2023 contains nary a stem. But I feel that their Volnays would benefit from their addition. Beady-eyed readers will also spot a couple of maiden vintages from new fermage agreements: a Puligny Village and Puligny Les Charmes the latter very promising. Amongst the Meursaults I usually find that the Les Perrières rules the roost but in 2022 its position is usurped by a fabulous Les Charmes a Premier Cru that seemed to revel in the growing season closely followed by a superb Genevrières. Predictably the Montrachet is stunning aged half in new oak in its first year then used oak for the remaining nine months. It is as I write in my one-word summation majestic.
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