Producer | Joseph Roty |
Country | France |
Region | Burgundy |
Varietal | Pinot Noir |
Vintage | 2021 |
Sku | 8925 |
Size | 750ml |
Unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries wild berries licorice orange zest vine smoke incense and rose petals the 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes is full-bodied deep and layered its velvety attack segueing into a rich succulent mid-palate that entirely conceals its powdery structuring tannins. Long and perfumed it entirely transcends the perceived limitations of the vintage and Burgundy purists will adore it. Tasting with affable eleventh-generation vigneron Pierre-Jean Roty?who took the helm at this discrete family-owned domaine following his brother's untimely passing in 2015?is an annual pleasure that I always eagerly anticipate. This year it was the turn of the 2021s wines that have nothing to fear from a comparison with other sunnier drier recent years exuding charm and perfume that will delight Burgundy purists. Roty fans will be familiar with the approach at this address: assiduously but only shallowly cultivated soils a high proportion of old vines minimal use of chemical treatments destemmed grapes fermented in concrete tanks and élevage in generous percentages of smoky new oak for 15-16 months. My sense is that today's wines are suppler than the Roty wines of yesteryear. They're less forbidding in their youth than their formidable reputation might suggest?even the grands crus boast such generosity of fruit that their rich structuring tannins are frequently concealed. But they develop just as gracefully as ever. Readers shouldn't hesitate to seek them out. Published: Jan 18 2024
A rich and even darker purple. Very intense crushed dark strawberries gorgeously hedonistic. Then it is. A-fresher style of strawberry plus raspberry on the palate an excellent fruit acid balance with tamed tannins. Do I still get a touch of something smoky to finish a slight intrusion of the barrel toast while the wine is young?
The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has the tricky task of following what I consider Roty's best cuvée this vintage the Griottes-Chambertin. There?s more black fruit here certainly more backward graphite-tinged with light sous-bois scents developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy tannins. It is one of the most structured Charmes-Chambertin wines from vines planted in 1881 and 1882 (the first vines planted in the locality after the phylloxera crisis.) Superb but serious! (Drink between 2030-2055)
jm