Wine Advocate: 94 Points
The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes was produced from the grapes that Bouley characterizes as the visually most appealing of his harvest and he opted to retain fully 40% whole bunches during vinification. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of plums sweet wild berries orange zest and spices it's medium to full-bodied satiny and suave with an especially seamless sensual profile its ample core of fruit largely concealing a chassis of beautifully powdery tannin. This is another cuvée that's fit to stand alongside recent banner vintages despite the more challenging season. Walk through the vineyards of Pommard and Volnay and Thomas Bouley's meticulously tended vines are easy to spot. With high canopies that are hedged late invariably moderate yields and aerated living soils they inspire admiration even among the most exacting. His opinions are trenchant but no one could contend that he doesn't put them into practice. Yet Bouley remains to a significant extent a "winemaker?s winemaker"?someone sometimes more talked about by his neighbors than by overseas collectors who are more readily seduced by social media savoir faire than hard work in the vineyards. That's beginning to change of course and his terrific portfolio of 2021s is one more reason why. Bouley's agronomy paid off once again delivering sufficient natural ripeness to obviate chaptalization and his increasingly well-adapted barrel choices?one-third new across the range?completed the picture. The wines have a grace harmony and charm that make them hard to resist but which will also equip them to age. As readers will remember the rudiments of Bouley's approach in the cuverie and cellar are simple. For his terroirs that are richer in clay he retains significant proportions of stems whereas stonier sites are largely or entirely destemmed. Macerations are comparatively long with temperature control only when deemed necessary. In the cellar the wines see two winters on the fine lees with minimal sulfites before gentle bottling under high-quality natural corks. Published: Jan 18 2024
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