Vinous: 94 Points
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Wine Advocate: 94 Points
The latest rendition of Bollinger's blended blanc de noirs bottling is the NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN VZ19; it is based on the 2019 vintage which represents 52% of the blend and the village of Verzenay which accounts for the origin of 40% of this bottling's components. 2019 is complemented by fully 48% reserve wines and above all fully a quarter derives from 2009; and it has the tension of Verzenay by Aÿ Avenay-Val-d'Or Tauxières and Mutigny. If all that sounds complicated the wine's appeal is easier to see as it offers up a demonstrative bouquet of yellow stone fruit mandarin and praline followed by a medium to full-bodied pure and pillowy palate that's charming even giving but also attractively racy concluding with a saline finish. It was disgorged with six grams per liter dosage. This doesn't tower above its 2018-base counterpart (perhaps unsurprisingly as the percentage of reserve wines in this bottling is so high) but it does seem to be marginally the strongest iteration of this cuvée to date. One of Champagne's reference points Bollinger's serious approach to farming Pinot Noir-dominated style commitment to barrel fermentation and maturation and superb palette of prime terroirs mark it out as one of the leading Grandes Marques today. These new releases are two blanc de noirs. One is the latest rendition of the house's NV bottling which highlights different predominating villages with every iteration. The other is the 2014 Vieilles Vignes Françaises which is one of my favorite wines but one I drink all too seldom given its tiny production and lofty price tag. Published: Aug 15 2024
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