Wine Advocate: 92+ Points
More complex and serious the 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière wafts from the glass with aromas of pear mint peach and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied satiny and seamless with a pure core of fruit bright acids and a saline finish it marries tension and charm to pleasing effect. Joseph Colin?who left Domaine Marc Colin to start a domaine of his own in 2016?is now ensconced in a brand-new gravity-flow winery on the outskirts of the village. Colin's approach as I've written before is to pick ripe grapes press whole bunches and barrel down without the addition of sulfites or any settling?sulfur dioxide is added only at bottling (which takes place under Diam closures). Maturation now takes place almost exclusively in large 500- or 600-liter barrels. Wines that are more generously sulfured he acknowledges are more tensile and tight-knit but the tension he argues comes from the sulfur not the terroir. And Colin is happy with what he describes as "a certain immediacy" that comes from low-sulfur élevage a quality that was manifest in his pretty precise expressive 2022s that emphasize the vintage's elegant side. Published: Jan 18 2024
Jasper Morris: 91-93 Points
Fresh primrose colour. The nose indicates a balanced ripeness and a depth of fruit to come. This is perhaps the most concentrated in the mouth but with a limestone mineral thread which electrifies the palate.
jm
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