Wine Advocate: 94 Points
Reviewed by William Kelley Issue Date 9th Jan 2020 Source January 2020 Week 2 The Wine Advocate The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is also showing nicely from bottle unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of raspberries plums grilled squab and warm spices that are framed by a deft application of classy new oak. On the palate the wine is medium to full-bodied deep and layered with a rich chassis of tannin fine concentration and a more introverted profile than the expressive Beaumonts. Charles Van Canneyt has surpassed himself with the 2018 vintage producing a set of wines that rivals his 2016s and 2015s as his finest to date. Deep textural and incipiently complex these are powerful but elegant wines that display a sense of energy and dynamism that some of the year's reds lack. Followers of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat will be familiar with Van Canneyt's approach in the cuverie and cellar: The predominantly destemmed fruit retained intact is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels emphasizing François Frères with Cavin in a supporting role and lasts fully 18 months with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge bottled before harvest. These in essence uncomplicated methods combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines produce elegant charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days so this is an address I warmly recommend.
Vinous: 92-94 Points
The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru is the most backward and strictest of the domaine’s Premier Crus very precise and completely transparent. The palate is focused fresh and silky-smooth in texture hints of brine and sea salt lacing a vibrant energetic finish that lingers in the mouth. A supremely well crafted Malconsort.
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