Vinous: 97 Points
The 2008 Toscana Sangiovese takes things into a decidedly exotic register. Complex layered and beguiling the 2008 offers notable power from start to finish. Its layered dynamic personality and overall presence are so evocative. I can only wonder at what the lost wine must have tasted like. - By Antonio Galloni on May 2023 It remains one of the greatest tastings I have ever been a part of either as an attendee or a host. Forty-six wines all of them in superb shape. Even wines from smaller or less well-known vintages were sublime. Not a single bottle was corked or oxidized. The memories from this retrospective of Gianfranco Soldera?s wines will last forever. Readers will find extensive historical context in the article that accompanies these tasting notes. After the highly unusual and exotic 2007 the 2008 Toscana Sangiovese marks a return to a more classic Soldera style. Here the flavors are quite bold and savory while the structure is that of a wine built for aging. Sage rosemary tobacco mint and leather notes wrap around a core of dark red stone fruits as this vivid crystalline wine shows off its personality and pedigree. Readers lucky enough to find the 2008 are in for a thrill. - By Antonio Galloni on February 2015 Gianfranco Soldera has been through a lot in the last few years including a devastating act of vandalism in 2012 as well as numerous political scuffles with his peers in Montalcino the most recent of which was a lawsuit by the producers' Consorzio that was dismissed in his favor. Still at 78 years of age Soldera looks as determined as ever. Production will be way down again in 2014 but that is the result of a challenging growing season and severe selection at harvest that resulted in a projected 5000 bottles of Sangiovese from ten hectares of vineyards in a single wine made from the best fruit of both the Case Basse and Intistieti vineyards. Yields are more normal in 2013. Indeed the two casks of 2013 Sangiovese I tasted were superb. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010 or 2012 but there is always next time. Readers should note that following his most recent disagreement with the Consorzio which included among other things being kicked out of the Consorzio Soldera has decided to release all of his new wines as Toscana Sangiovese. These are the same wines that would have previously been released as Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. As always these remain some of the most compelling and transcendental wines being made anywhere in the world. Sadly though prices have essentially doubled. Soldera fans might also enjoy this recent vertical tasting going back to the 1980s.
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