John Gilman: 94 Points
To the best of my recollection, the 2017 vintage was the first Cuvée Totum bottling from Emilien Feneuil that was crafted entirely from chardonnay. This is also the case with the beautiful new 2019 release. The wine is non-dosé, but as Emilien feels there is probably a bit of residual sugar still in the wine after it stops its fermentation, he chooses to label the wine as an Extra Brut. It was disgorged in July of 2022 and offers up a deep, complex bouquet of pear, nectarine, brioche, orange blossoms, a beautiful base of soil tones, hazelnuts and just a touch of buttery oak. On the palate the wine is deep, complex and full-bodied, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent soil signature, refined mousse and a long, beautifully balanced and classy finish that closes with a gentle touch of oak. I love Monsieur Feneuil’s unique style of wines, which have a vinosity to them that really is not emulated anywhere else that I am familiar with in the region of Champagne. (Drink between 2024-2050)
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