Elvio Cogno - Barolo Ravera Riserva Vigna Elena 2017 (750ml)
Jeb Dunnuck: 98 Points
The 2017 Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena is made entirely from the Rosé clone and is a very special wine in that it moves from incense to red berries rose petal and licorice. It has a gripping structure though with sweet ripe tannins and evolving orchard fruit. Everyone will get something from this wine. It is a beautiful wine in this stage and although 2017 was a warm vintage it is elegant and graceful. Drink 2024-2044. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991 after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse Cascina Nuova located in the commune of Novello in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio?s son-in-law Valter Fissore and his daughter Nadia who took over in 1996. In the vineyards they continue to push forward working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991 the same year Valter and Nadia?s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005 they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco. Each of the following wines was tasted at their tasting room with Valter Fissore in March of 2023. Across the range the wines showed wonderful purity with each wine having a unique and singular stamp making them some of the most enjoyable and expressive wines from the area and I highly recommend seeking them out.
Wine Spectator: 97 Points
Ever so supple and laced with cherry raspberry rose licorice and mineral flavors this Barolo is complex harmonious and long. It's as much about the silky texture as any of the other elements that make this so compelling. Superb length on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2043. From Italy.?B.S.
Wine Enthusiast: 97 Points
#35 Wine Enthusiast Cellar Selection of 2023 Though it was a very dry year this vintage still managed to keep its impressive elegance. The wine opens with enticing aromas of wild cherry fresh and dried roses incense wild herbs and savory spice. The palate is an example of thoughtfulness and craft with a core of deep wild berries black tea and crushed stones that are all supported by supple tannins and lifted acidity. Drink 2025?2045. ? Jeff Porter
Kerin O'Keefe: 95 Points
Aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry violet and forest floor mingle with balsamic notes of eucalyptus on this full-bodied red. A great showing from what was an extremely hot dry vintage the rather brooding palate is firmly structured featuring dried cherry licorice and tobacco alongside tightly knit close-grained tannins. It closes on the warmth of alcohol. Best 2027?2035. Abv: 15%
jdWine Advocate: 95 Points
This is Cogno's top-shelf wine that represents a micro-vinification of the rosé clone of Nebbiolo from an even more closely defined parcel. Only 3800 bottles were made. The 2017 Barolo Riserva Ravera Vigna Elena is a hot-vintage expression (in fact the alcohol jumps up to 15% in this wine) with a broad and rich personality that fits in line with the character of the growing season. In addition to that textural support this wine is also more accessible and raring to go. Blackberry is interlaced with licorice root cola and spice. I notice that the brand name seems to be transitioning away from Elvio Cogno to Cogno at least in terms of how it appears on the front label. Published: Aug 24 2023
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