Producer | Elio Grasso |
Country | Italy |
Region | Piedmont |
Subregion | Monforte d'Alba |
Varietal | Nebbiolo |
Vintage | 2017 |
Sku | 2884 |
Size | 750ml |
Grasso's 2017 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is fabulous. In fact the Gavarini is easily one of the wines of the vintage because it retains all of its classic signatures which is also the sign of a first-class vineyard. Bright and vibrant in the glass the Gavarini pulses with energy. Crushed red flowers mint chalk white pepper cinnamon and orange peel give the 2017 a super-classic Nebbiolo profile as expressed in a relatively high-altitude site. The precision and finesse of the tannins - so hard to find in 2017- elevates the Gavarini into the realm of the sublime.
The distinctive amphitheater that is Gavarini in Monforte d?Alba is situated just north of Ginestra. The 2017 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is nuanced with perfectly ripe cherry cinnamon cedar and menthol. It delivers a high level of refinement on the palate with super-fine tannins orange peel pomegranate and dried roses. Drink 2025-2045. This estate covers 42 hectares of land of which 18 are dedicated to vineyard and the remainder to forest. Today the entire family is involved at the winery ? Elio Gianluca Marina Francesca Martina and Anna Grasso. In the cellar Gianluca practices low temperature fermentations with long macerations of up to two months with submerged cap management. Large Slavonian casks of 15- to 22-year-old barrels that have been steam-treated instead of charred are utilized. In 2017 they managed the vineyard differently to adapt to the challenges of the vintage and did two separate green harvests in order to ensure the grapes achieved phenolic ripeness; once during veraison as well as in August reducing yields by nearly another 50%.
vThe Elio Grasso 2017 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera shows us that deft hands are able to shape good results in a challenging vintage. This wine is balanced and polished with an array of smaller and more detailed aromas that we simply don't see in the majority of Barolo releases from this hot and dry vintage. The bouquet here cautiously unveils tiny berry fruit underbrush wild rose lilac rusty nail and crushed stone. Nuanced and precise this is one of a handful of 2017 releases that deserves special praise. Gianluca Grasso submitted only his 2017 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera and 2017 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté for review at this time. The 2015 Barolo Riserva Rüncot won't be released until next year and his 2020 Dolcetto d'Alba and 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo had not been bottled in time for my tasting. I'll be sure to publish reviews of those wines as soon as they are ready.
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