Wine Advocate: 94 Points
The very expressive 2017 L'Etoile En Banode is a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin from a vineyard planted with the two varietals by Jean Gros in 1970. The wine is powerful but delicate and fluid; there's something feminine in the traditional wines from Montbourgeau. 2017 was a low-yielding and concentrated year that suits the flor style. The two grapes fermented together in stainless steel and then matured in a 2500-liter oak vat (the volume produced) for one year after which time the wine was transferred to 500-liter oak barrels that were never again topped up. This has a strong influence from the flor yeasts with notes of curry and morel mushrooms and a strong salinity and minerality. This bottling transcends the challenging character of the year. Montbourgeau is the leading producer in the village of l'Etoile where they produce a full range of wines that until recently were made in a very traditional style. With the arrival of the third generation there are also some floral ouillé whites. I love the elegance and minerality of their wines and this time I was very surprised by a beautifully perfumed red produced with Poulsard.
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