Vinous: 94 Points
Bottled in May 2024 without added sulfur the 2022 Savagnin Côtes du Jura En Chalasse unwinds with baked apple lemon peel dried grapefruit and crushed flowers. Following the complex aromatic profile this shines on the palate with saline traces and vibrant acidity. Packing remarkable inner energy the 2022 comes highly recommended. - By Nicolas Greinacher on July 2024 Domaine Labet a family-run winery spread over 14 hectares in Rotalier has long been a trailblazer in the region. In the late 1980s Alain Labet became one of the first Jura winemakers to break with the tradition of leaving barrels un-topped pioneering the production of topped-up white wines. Today Labet?s three children?Julien Romain and Charlene?run the estate. During my visit I met with Charlene Labet. About one-third of the vines here are over 60 years old mostly originating from massal selections. For these older vines all work is done exclusively with horses. The winery processes only estate-grown grapes with red grapes partially or fully de-stemmed. For the topped-up white wines each plot is vinified separately with long fermentations using indigenous yeasts. While oak vessels remain dominant during maturation the Labets have also begun experimenting with amphorae and concrete eggs. The oxidative white wines ferment in foudres before being transferred into old oak barriques in the spring for extended aging. Tasting through their extensive portfolio the Côtes du Jura Savagnin En Chalasse from both current and past vintages is particularly impressive as well as the 2018 Savagnin Les Insolites and the 2015 and 2016 Vin Jaune with the latter knocking it out of the park. In addition to their high standards of quality I commend the Labets for their transparency in including technical details like total SO2 and volatile acidity on their back labels. Make no mistake: these wines are full of substance life and complexity confirming that the three Labet siblings produce some of the appellation?s finest. The reds often undergo intracellular fermentation before the main fermentation. "We store our grape crates in the fridge for a couple of days then destem and by the time the temperature rises for active fermentation it may be eight days after harvesting" Charlene explains continuing "Then it's 10-15 days of vatting in full fermentation." The reds age between five and eight months aiming for delicate flavor profiles emphasizing freshness and high natural acidity over full-bodied richness.
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