Wine Advocate: 90 Points
The 2022 Saint-Aubin La Princée offers up notes of apple blossom crisp orchard fruit and wet stones followed by a medium-bodied pure and racy palate that's fresh but charming. This will offer a broad drinking window. Olivier Lamy and his vines appear to have handled the 2022 growing season admirably despite the hydric deficit and warm conditions. This is an estate whose wines have generally demanded a bit of patience out of the gates yet the 2022s are especially charming exhibiting a youthful expressiveness and sense effortless this year that makes them especially appealing. Bottling under Diam 30 with concomitantly somewhat lower levels of free sulfites surely has something to do with it. But it's probably also simply the result of over two decades' work coming together in a seamless synthesis. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture including plantings at over 20000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; extended maturation on the lees which now amounts to 24 months in total 23 of those in largely neutral wood; obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that cumulatively make the difference between the best and the rest Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Everything here comes warmly recommended. Published: Jan 30 2025
Vinous
The 2022 Saint-Aubin La Princée has a crisp minerally bouquet with wet limestone intermixed with Granny Smith aromas. It has fine delineation. The palate is taut on the entry with a dab of spice and modest weight with plenty of ginger on the finish. It just needs a little more control and precision. - By Neal Martin on October 2024 Olivier Lamy and I tasted in his new tasting room which is far more comfortable than a day in the cellar. Before we broached in 2022s not 2023s since he sells the vintage that is in bottle we went out onto the balcony where he gave me a potted guide to the climats that surround the village of Saint-Aubin and their respective soil types. ?In 2022 it was drier in Saint-Aubin? he tells me ?but we enjoy good water retention due to clayey soils. I found that the season produced smaller grapes. I started to pick on August 25 and for the reds I used around two-thirds whole cluster. The wines were bottled in July and August.? It goes without saying that Lamy has become the most reputed winemaker in Saint-Aubin his Haut-Densité and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet selling for a princely sum due to an active secondary market. However there is plenty to savor amongst his Village and Premier Crus that are more friendly on the wallet.
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