Vinous: 93 Points
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Wine Advocate: 93 Points
The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Frionnes is saline and mineral unfurling in the glass with notes of white flowers oyster shells and citrus oil. Medium-bodied satiny and racy with a pure core of fruit and a penetrating mineral finish. It's derived from plantings at between 11000-14000 vines per hectare in Kimmeridgian limestone. Olivier Lamy and his vines appear to have handled the 2022 growing season admirably despite the hydric deficit and warm conditions. This is an estate whose wines have generally demanded a bit of patience out of the gates yet the 2022s are especially charming exhibiting a youthful expressiveness and sense effortless this year that makes them especially appealing. Bottling under Diam 30 with concomitantly somewhat lower levels of free sulfites surely has something to do with it. But it's probably also simply the result of over two decades' work coming together in a seamless synthesis. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture including plantings at over 20000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; extended maturation on the lees which now amounts to 24 months in total 23 of those in largely neutral wood; obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that cumulatively make the difference between the best and the rest Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Everything here comes warmly recommended. Published: Jan 30 2025
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