Conterno Cantine Nervi - Gattinara Molsino 2018 (1.5L)
Vinous: 98+ Points
The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm sunny spot on the estate at 400 meters in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit sage menthol new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep beautifully resonant finish that is utterly captivating. It's a remarkable effort for the first year in which Roberto Conterno and his team were in charge. The ambition is pretty clear. Molsino will soon be the Monfortino of Alto Piemonte. - By Antonio Galloni on March 2022 I fully expected that Roberto Conterno would elevate quality at Nervi upon his acquisition of the winery in 2018. What I did not expect was that the change would happen so fast and that the makeover would be so extreme. A historic estate Nervi had fallen on rough times in which quality was all over the place. Before his acquisition Conterno had started consulting on an informal basis for the former owners so he had a running start. Even so the investments here have been considerable and include a new winery and a state of the art bottling line which means Conterno owns two more of these gleaming machines than most wineries around the world. It was not that long ago that Conterno answered all phone calls himself at the family winery in Monforte. Since then he has elevated the wines at two estates through passion conviction and relentless drive. Just as impressively though Conterno has built a strong team to execute on his vision. The importance of that can?t possibly be overstated. As for the 2018 Gattinaras they are special wines that very much merit your consideration.
vWine Advocate: 96 Points
With vines planted in 1992 in a cozy and protected position within the folds of hills above Gattinara at 400 meters in elevation the Molsino vineyard is known to produce extra fruit weight concentration and power. This is definitely the case with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Gattinara Vigna Molsino. Of the two single-vineyard wines made at this estate (the other being the Vigna Valferana) I'm giving the aging edge to this bottle and have extended the drinking window as a result. During my tasting with Roberto Conterno he described this wine as having "broader shoulders" and "more bite to the mouthfeel." Those are exact descriptions and I would add that Molsino shows special dimension in terms of both width and depth with red and purple fruits that spread evenly over the palate. The wine's finish is powered by tarry smoke and campfire ash that add vertical lift and length. In keeping with the evolution of this producer I had changed the brand name from Nervi to Nervi Conterno to reflect what you see on the newly redesigned front labels of the new releases. Starting with the 2018 vintage the name is once again modified as Conterno Nervi (switching the two words) and I have once again recorded this change in our database. All the wines in this report fall under the header Conterno Nervi although the older vintages still read just Nervi or Nervi with the name Conterno in smaller print on the front label. This progressive graphic evolution falls in step with the production control gained by Roberto Conterno in the immediate vintages following his acquisition of Nervi. I tasted the two cru expressions Vigne Molsino and Valferana before their commercial release during my visit to the winery in Gattinara this past summer. The big news is the addition of a new rosé sparkling wine that you will find reviewed here for the first time. Published: Nov 30 2021
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