Vinous: 94 Points
The NV (2017) Cuvée L?Orme is another impressive Champagne from Benoît Déhu. Aromatic and light on its feet L'Orme shows the more delicate nuanced side of Pinot Noir off to great effect. Kirsch wild flowers mint spice and dried flowers are all nicely lifted. L'Orme is classy understated and impossible to resist. Bright acids and veins of salinity extend the finish effortlessly. No dosage. Disgorged: July 11 2022. - By Antonio Galloni on November 2022 Benoît Déhu has a pretty intriguing set of new releases this year. The top wines remain La Rue des Noyers (Meunier) and Cuvée L?Orme (Pinot Noir) both of which are impressive especially considering the challenges of 2017. There is also a collection of single-rootstock bottlings from Rue des Noyers in this case all 2014s. Those are interesting wines to taste but perhaps releasing them in the same vintage as the Rue des Noyers might have provided a greater opportunity for comparative tastings. Biodynamic farming is the norm. The wines are fermented and aged in neutral wood with blocked malolactic fermentation and bottled with no dosage. These remain some of the most distinctive Champagnes readers will come across.
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